Avocado fries at Hearth Restaurant
Chef John “Woody” Linton didn’t invent avocado fries. Still, his rendition of this popular starter at Hearth Restaurant in Evanston is truly memorable finger food. Linton dredges avocado slices in Japanese panko crumbs to create a beautifully crisp, crunchy jacket for each lush chunk. If trying these at home, heed Linton’s advice. “It’s important to use ripe — not hard — avocados.” No, cooking does not soften them. There’s lots going on in this simple dish. Served alongside is a chipotle aioli of egg yolk, olive oil, Dijon mustard, lemon juice and chipotle chilies in adobo sauce — there’s “a touch of spiciness and tang that complements the smoked salt and lime we use to finish the fries,” says Linton. It’s avocado’s moment, and people want dishes with good flavors and textural interest — all here with these fries ($8). 1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, 847-570-8400, www.hearthrestaurant.net
– David Hammond
Blueberry quinoa pancakes at Cochon Volant
At Cochon Volant Brasserie in the Loop, breakfast is a French affair. A big French affair. Order the restaurant’s specialty of Big French Pancakes — you have choices, but blueberry quinoa ($14) is the way to go — and you’ll be staring down thick, buttery pancakes the diameter of a dinner plate, drenched in warm, fresh blueberries that dribble their juices down the stack. You barely need syrup, but the chefs make a smart choice, skipping maple in favor of a less viscous agave syrup that adds a honeyed complement to the cakes’ natural sweetness. I know what you’re thinking: $14 for pancakes? But this feast is worth the splurge. 100 W. Monroe St., 312-754-6560, www.cochonvolantchicago.com
– Leah Pickett
Cap’n Crunch French toast at Oyster Bah
Bread, egg wash, pan fry, boom: French toast — OK at best, frequently meh. Thankfully, the dish gets a much-needed makeover at Oyster Bah. The restaurant’s Cap’n Crunch French toast ($12) layers in orange custard that adds tartness, and ups the texture by coating challah bread with crispy Cap’n Crunch. “This was my favorite cereal growing up,” says Oyster Bah chef Pete Balodimas. “I made this French toast at home for my family, and it worked so well, we incorporated it onto our brunch menu.” Housemade syrup brings it all together. “We take pure Vermont maple syrup and blueberries, then slowly heat until the berries begin to pop, which flavors the maple syrup,” says Balodimas. “While the syrup simmers, butter is emulsified in.” Turns out, French toast can be fantastic. 1962 N. Halsted St., 773-248-3000, www.oysterbah.com
– DH
CB+J Smoothie at 24Karrots
24 Karrots’ smoothie list incorporates several bold blends, such as the Strawberry Patch (collards, kiwi, strawberry, basil and mango) and the Rocket Berry (arugula, berries, romaine, banana and lime), but the smoothie that recalls the familiar salty-sweetness of a classic PB&J sandwich is one of the most inventive of all. The CB+J ($5.50 for 12 ounces, $7.15 for 16 ounces) teams creamy, house-made cashew butter with mixed berries, banana and almond milk sweetened with dates. 24 Karrots owner Anthony Kamps said he was thinking about using the cashew butter in one of the shop’s acai bowls when he came up with the idea for the drink, inspired by how well a standard PB&J pairs with a glass of milk. “I used the cashew butter in place of peanut butter, mixed berries as the ‘jelly’ and replaced the milk with our homemade almond milk,” he said. “And the results were great!” We agree: This smoothie is thick, salty, sweet perfection. 2004 W. Armitage Ave., 773-770-3865, www.24karrotsjuice.com
– LP
French fries at Beef & Barley
A good french fry is pretty easy to find. A great french fry? Much harder. It’s a Goldilocks situation: These fries are too crispy. These fries are too soft. These taste as if they were ambushed by the yellow-dress girl on the Morton Salt canister. You get the idea. That’s why I was so excited to find a memorable plate of fries when I wasn’t even looking for them. They came, unassumingly, with the burger ($12; $5 for just fries), each with a feather-light crunch giving way to an extra-fluffy middle. The chef must have some trick, I thought. But, better yet, the prep is deceptively simple: The potatoes are double-fried in vegetable oil and tossed with kosher salt. That’s it. That means someone in the kitchen has the timing of the fryer, to quote our gal Goldilocks, just right. 3001 N. Ashland Ave., 773-248-0990, www.beefandbarleychi.com
– Marissa Conrad
Fried pickles at Barn & Company
I am a fried-pickle aficionado, and I’ve spent probably too much time pondering the value of pickle coins vs. spears, sweet vs. dill, cornmeal batter vs. flour. But Gary Wiviott, pitmaster at Barn & Company in Lincoln Park, doesn’t waffle on any of that. After methodically experimenting with different pickles and preparations, he has found the perfect formula, served for $8 with a jalapeno-ranch dipping sauce. First, he opts for pickle spears over coins because they’re easier to dip and have more bite. “We use new pickles for crunch,” he adds. A pickle of medium girth ensures even cooking; too small and the interior will be mushy before the breading crisps. He soaks the kosher dill spears in buttermilk, then coats them with beer batter and panko crumbs before frying. These are my favorite fried pickles in Chicago right now: a tongue-tantalizing balance of moisture and crunch, with tang and creaminess in every bite. Wiviott’s chef’s jacket reads “Barbecue Life Coach,” but perhaps it should brag about his pickle life skills too. 950 W. Wrightwood Ave, 773-832-4000, www.barnandcompany.com
– DH
Grilled cheese with blueberry jam at Community Tavern
Not much beats a toasty grilled cheese, especially to wind down a stressful day. Find an unusual version at Community Tavern, a French-inspired steakhouse in Portage Park. The star of the bar menu, the grilled cheese ($7), teams salty Gruyere with juicy blueberry jam and slightly peppery watercress. The blueberry and Gruyere make for a memorable sweet-savory contrast that’s not all that different from a PB&J — just a little more adult. Pair with a glass of bubbly and enjoy. 4038 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-283-6080, www.communitytavern.com
– LP
Hot stone bibimbap at Kameya
Bibimbap, which translates to “mixed rice” in Korean, is a signature Korean dish that endures because of its variability. For a meal in a bowl, a choose-your-own combination of sauteed vegetables, white or brown rice, sliced meat or tofu and a garnish of fried, raw or sunny-side up egg has something for everyone. At Kameya, a tiny Lincoln Park restaurant offering imaginative twists on traditional Japanese and Korean fare — try the spicy tuna tartare tower with house-fried tortilla chips and sweet sauce to start — the hot stone bibimbap entree ($15.95) pops with color and flavor in any iteration. The bowl arrives on a hot stone to keep the contents warm and steamy, starting with the sumptuous bed of rice, white or brown, and rising up to the wheel of assorted veggies, which include bright orange carrot shreds and sliced shiitake mushrooms, and finally to the overlays of a large egg and a spray of microgreens. Add beef, chicken or tofu for an additional $1.99 — the tender and lightly seasoned tofu is particularly amenable — stir well before eating and enjoy. 806 W. Webster Ave., 773-935-3474, www.kameya77.com
– LP
House-made nut milks at Oromo Cafe
At Oromo Cafe, house-made nut milks start with either pistachios, pecans, almonds or hazelnuts. Chef Corey Joseph soaks the nuts in filtered water overnight, pulverizes them in a high-power blender, strains the resulting liquid and adds a touch of vanilla and raw organic coconut sugar. From there, he serves them straight or adds spices, herbs and fruits in a number of blended drinks. Turmeric is featured heavily in the delicious house “golden mylk” ($6 for 12 ounces), a chai-like elixir made with Joseph’s almond milk, honey, cinnamon, ginger and black pepper. The hazelnut horchata ($6 for 12 ounces), creamy thanks to rice, coconut and hazelnut milks, is also a delight. Drinks like lattes ($6; $8 with pistachio milk) combine the nut milks with interesting ingredients: ashwagandha, an Ayurvedic herb that purports to increase energy; antioxidant-rich (and more commonly known) cacao; and camu camu, an Amazonian fruit with high levels of vitamin C. 4703 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-799-1931, www.oromocafechicago.com
– Joseph Hernandez
The Lou at Lou Malnati’s
This family-run Chicago pizza empire traces its roots to the origins of deep-dish pizza. Rudy Malnati, Lou’s father, managed Pizzeria Uno from its inception. In addition to its iconic cheese and cheese-sausage pizzas, there are minor innovations; The Lou ($23), a three-cheese pie with rich mozzarella, Romano and cheddar, is my favorite. The pizza comes on a garlic version of the restaurant’s signature Buttercrust, a slightly crunchy upgrade with a hint of buttery flavor. On all pizzas here, crushed San Marzano tomatoes (never a sauce) deliver pure flavors, and skillful baking is remarkably consistent. Multiple locations, www.loumalnatis.com
– Phil Vettel
Matcha drinks at Nada Tea House
Don’t let the modest storefront fool you. Nada Tea & Coffee House is a Japanese teahouse that serves some of the most expertly made tea in Chicago — including the best matcha I’ve found in the city. The simple Matcha Latte ($3.50 small, $4.10 large) is made with a base of fine matcha powder, steamed milk and honey, while the more decadent Matcha Mocha ($3.85 small, $4.45 large) pumps up its matcha and steamed milk with a swirl of white chocolate. The Matcha Viennese ($3.50 small, $4.10 large) is the prettiest of the three, as its matcha, made with hot water and laced with honey, is crowned with a hefty dollop of fresh whipped cream. The richness and slight bitterness of the matcha in each of these drinks balances out the sweetness of the honey or chocolate, and they all feel the way that matcha should when going down: soothing and rejuvenating. 1552 W. Fullerton Ave., 773-529-2239, www.nadateahouse.com
– LP
Naan at Mango Pickle
Too often naan acts as a ho-hum scoop that gets whatever you are eating from point A, the plate, to point B, your mouth. Not so at Mango Pickle, where the Indian flatbread gets the attention it deserves. The slow-rise naan ($3) is served warm with a light gloss of butter and a sprinkling of sea salt. Once the fluffy, buoyant bread arrives, you’ll want to tear it with abandon. Chef-owner Marisa Paolillo says her naan represents “the best of both worlds” in terms of European and Indian approaches. She uses poolish, a pre-fermented yeast starter, to give a bit of sourness to the dough, which she makes using a high-quality bread flour from Wisconsin, a small amount of yeast and hours of rising time. As for baking, the naan are done to order. Paolillo bakes the dough on a stone plate at 550 degrees, where it takes just 6 minutes before going directly to the table. 5842 N. Broadway, 773-944-5555, www.mangopicklechicago.com
– Bill Daley
Pierogi at Kasia’s Deli
Despite the designation as one of Martha Stewart’s go-to stops when she’s in Chicago, Kasia’s Deli is decidedly a neighborhood spot: Take a number, order everything — deli or dining menu — from the same counter, take a seat (hopefully, at least; there are only six of them). The pierogi are the popular kids in the case, with different flavors every day. I got four: sweet cheese, sauerkraut, potato-and-cheese and beef. While the former pair were more interesting — creamy, sweet-but-not-too-sweet cheese and tender, tangy kraut — than the latter pair, all four reminded me of my late grandmother’s comforting creations: soft, buttery and perfectly simple. 50 cents apiece. 2101 W. Chicago Ave., 773-486-7500, www.kasiasdeli.com
– Adam Lukach
Pretzel croissant at Cafe Vienna
The German soft pretzel is a delectable invention, as is its French cousin, the flaky croissant. So why not combine the two into one magnificent superbread? Providentially, a cozy Austrian cafe and bakery in Lincoln Park has done just that. The croissant sandwich plate ($8) at Cafe Vienna includes a breakfast sandwich served on either a plain croissant or a pretzel croissant, the latter option being particularly swoon-worthy. The sandwich itself is huge, overflowing with fluffy scrambled eggs and up to four ingredients of your choice (ham, bacon, pork sausage, hot andouille sausage or smoked apple chicken sausage for the meats; onions, tomatoes, mushrooms, mixed peppers, jalapeno peppers or spinach for the veggies; Swiss, cheddar, mozzarella, feta or American for the cheeses). But the best part of the sandwich is the bread: a warm, fresh and buttery baked croissant-pretzel hybrid that is melt-in-your-mouth exquisite. 2523 N. Clark St., 773-244-9922, www.cafeviennachicago.com
– LP
Red-beet veggie burger at Revolution Brewpub
In too many restaurants, a nuked supermarket-issued patty is all one can expect out of a veggie burger. It’s a happy surprise to find the housemade, kitchen-sink variety, when vegetables, legumes, herbs, spices, dressings and a surprise or two are mashed together to form a burger as savory and satisfying as the carnivorous version. The veggie burger at Revolution Brewpub ($13) is one of those masterworks. Every component is made in-house, including the bun; and the recipe was not a snap to create, says general manager Gabriel Boden: “It probably took a year or more, trying various takes.” The thick, juicy patty incorporates cremini mushrooms, smoked black beans and roasted red beets (delivering a rosy hue), and arrives topped with melty shreds of pepper jack cheese, tangy red onion marmalade and sprigs of fresh arugula, all hulking inside a sturdy bun made with quinoa. 2323 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-227-2739, www.revbrew.com/brewpub
– LP
Slow-roasted beets at 3 Arts Club Cafe
3 Arts Club Cafe is a restaurant inside a Restoration Hardware store; window-shop for pricey couches before you’re seated in an enclosed central courtyard with glass and steel arching overhead. Thankfully, salads start at a reasonable $9 on the menu alongside vegetable dishes and heartier items like truffle-butter grilled cheese. The winner came from the veggie list: Labeled simply as slow-roasted beets ($13), the dish features chunky roasted beets atop a crunchy salad with baby kale, smoked feta, charred red onion and a toasted sesame vinaigrette. Before you dig in, dip the fork in the bottom and mix in the beet puree hiding there, which will cover your fork in electric-red juice. The puree is pickled red beets blended with some of the pickling liquid and a small amount of yogurt. Even for a non-beet lover, it’s just enough of that distinctive flavor to be pleasing, but not overwhelming. Pair it with a glass of wine and take in the ambience, including glimmering chandeliers and candles at every table. 1300 N. Dearborn Parkway, 312-475-9116, www.3artscafe.com
– Alison Bowen
Stuffed pizza at Nancy’s Pizza
Nancy’s Pizza locations now stretch nationwide, but the location in Niles, the oldest Nancy’s, is where you’ll bask in the presence of the woman for whom the pizzeria is named. Your server will draw your first slice of the cheese-stuffed pizza, which is wise because you may end up with cheese strings all over your table otherwise. This pizza is so good, it doesn’t need any toppings ($18 for large). 8706 W. Golf Road, Niles, 847-824-8183, www.nancyspizza.com
– LC
Vegetable tempura at Parachute
Too many restaurants serve leaden, heavily battered chunks of food and slap the name “tempura” on them. Not so at Parachute, where the vegetable tempura is as it should be: delicate, crisp and focused. The vegetables vary with the season (meaning the $4 price may as well, says chef and co-owner Beverly Kim). On a recent visit, a Korean sesame leaf looked so green and fresh underneath its tissue-thin shell of batter that it was hard to believe it was cooked. The batter shattered on my tongue just as it should. The tempura is made in small batches, Kim says, with the oil heated precisely to 365 degrees. Finished bits are laid to rest briefly on a grate so any oil can drain away. The plate comes with just a few pieces of tempura, served with a soy-based dipping sauce. It’s a small but crucial dish; I’d call it as important an opener as Parachute’s signature baked potato bing bread. 3500 N. Elston Ave., 773-654-1460, www.parachuterestaurant.com
– BD
Vegetarian sloppy joe at Handlebar
Bikes are piled up as if to keep warm in front of Handlebar, a vegetarian restaurant in a quiet area of Wicker Park. Inside, helmets fill the tables of mustached men, and rock music drowns out the conversations of neighboring diners. Handlebar’s menu features a wonderfully disparate combination of American and Mexican food — paralleling its peaceful mingling of customers, ranging from families with children to groups of bikers out for a day of drinking. The meatless offerings fulfill the comfort-food hankerings of vegetarians and meat-eaters alike with sublime substitutes. The sloppy joe’s sweetly spicy barbecue sauce will get your face just as satisfactorily messy as it did at summer camp. Made with carne de soya, but served with fresh coleslaw on a toasted pretzel bun, it’s more refined than the slop at your parents’ cookout. The tangy sandwich ($9.25) comes with a side and a pickle; the garlic mashed potatoes are particularly delectable. With a long drinks menu and sunny backyard patio for warm days, you may find yourself sticking around for seconds. 2311 W. North Ave., 773-384-9546, www.handlebarchicago.com
– Elizabeth Buck
Yam dumplings at Little Unicoco
The lightly fried yam dumplings served at Little Unicoco in Rogers Park were my first foray into Nigerian cuisine — though this is one of the few items on the menu that isn’t traditional. Each delicately fried ball has a crisp, slightly salty outside that gives way to a creamy middle. They’re mild in flavor, perfect for dipping into rich stew. $6 for five. 1631 W. Howard St., 773-764-2626, www.littleunicoco.com
– Grace Wong
Zephy veggie-loaded pizza at Homeslice Wheel House
Homeslice Wheel House in Lincoln Park doesn’t skimp when it comes to pizza. The restaurant and bar offers a bounty of thin-crust pies, plus calzones, salads and starters like oven-roasted garlic bread. And if it’s a meat-free pizza you want, the Zephy ($11 for a small, $23 for a medium, $32 for a large) is the pie to beat. Loaded with juicy portobello mushrooms, peppery sun-dried tomatoes and three cheeses — crumbled goat cheese, mozzarella and provolone — that bubble over a creamy spinach and ricotta sauce and a crispy, yet pillowy crust, the Zephy packs a medley of flavor into every bite. For the wheat-averse, small pies can be made gluten-free ($3 extra). 938 W. Webster Ave., 312-789-4600, www.getsomehomie.com
source: http://www.chicagotribune.com/dining/best-foods/2017/ct-eat-this-2017-vegetarian-story.html